How to Check Steering Rack Boots for Damage

12 September 2026

Table of Contents

• What You'll Need to Check Steering Rack Boots
• Step 1: Safely Access the Steering Rack Boots
  • Jacking and Supporting Your Vehicle
• Step 2: Inspect the Boots for Splits, Cracks and Leaks
  • Checking the Gaiter Clips and Seals
• Steering Rack Boot Replacement Tools You'll Need
• Steering Rack Gaiter Replacement Cost UK: What to Expect
• MOT Steering Component Failure: Why Boots Matter
• Common Mistakes to Avoid When Checking Steering Rack Boots
• Frequently Asked Questions

Last Updated: September 12, 2026

What You'll Need to Check Steering Rack Boots

Checking steering rack boots for damage is one of the simplest jobs you can do on your own car, and it takes less than twenty minutes with the right kit. The boots, also called gaiters, are rubber sleeves that protect the steering rack's inner joints from grit, water and road salt. When they split, the damage underneath happens fast and quietly.

At Kettering Motorist Centre, we see split boots on MOT inspections every week, and the pattern is always the same: the driver had no idea until the tester pointed it out. This guide shows you how to check steering rack boots for damage yourself, so you find problems before they become expensive.

Here's what you'll need before you start:

• A trolley jack and two axle stands
• A torch or inspection light
• A small flat-bladed screwdriver
• Nitrile gloves and a rag
• A wheel brace

That's it. No specialist tools, no diagnostic equipment. If you'd rather leave it to us, our team in Kettering can inspect the full steering and suspension system during a routine service.

GOV.UK MOT inspection manual, steering and suspension section

Step 1: Safely Access the Steering Rack Boots

Access starts with getting the front of the car safely off the ground. Steering rack boots sit behind the front wheels, so you need the car raised and supported on stands, never on the jack alone.

Jacking and Supporting Your Vehicle

Park on level, solid ground. Apply the handbrake, engage first gear or park, and loosen the front wheel nuts half a turn before lifting. Jack under the manufacturer's lifting point, then lower the car onto axle stands placed under the subframe or sill points. Once it's down on the stands, give the car a firm shove to confirm it's stable.

Remove both front wheels. On most front-wheel-drive cars, the boots are now visible either side of the rack, tucked behind the inner wheel arch liner. You may need to release a few clips or screws to pull the liner back. On some models, particularly rear-wheel-drive and all-wheel-drive cars, you'll need to look from underneath.

Turn the steering wheel to full lock, which pushes one boot into a stretched position and the other into a compressed one. Check both positions, because a split often only opens up when the rubber is stretched.

Step 2: Inspect the Boots for Splits, Cracks and Leaks

Inspect each boot along its full length with a torch, squeezing the rubber gently to open any hidden splits. Look for four things: splits, cracks, grease leaks and loose clips.

Start at the outer end near the track rod and work inwards. A healthy boot is supple, dry on the outside and fully pleated. Run your fingers along the ridges, flexing the rubber as you go. Small surface cracks are normal on older cars, but any split that goes through the rubber is a failure.

Grease on the outside of the boot is the clearest sign of trouble. The boot holds grease around the inner joint, so if grease is escaping, grit is getting in. Check the area around the boot for a dark, sticky film, and look at the inner tie rod itself for play by gripping it and trying to rock it.

Checking the Gaiter Clips and Seals

The clips matter as much as the rubber. A boot can be perfectly intact but still let water in if a clip has rusted through or worked loose.

Check both ends of each boot. The inner clip secures the boot to the rack housing, and the outer clip secures it to the track rod. Look for rust, missing clips and boots that have slipped out of position. A boot that has slid along the rod is doing nothing at all.

Grip each boot and twist it gently. It should feel firmly attached at both ends with no movement. If it rotates freely on the rack housing, the seal is compromised. Replace the clips, or the boot if the rubber is perished, before refitting the wheels.

Steering Rack Boot Replacement Tools You'll Need

Steering rack boot replacement tools are mostly basic hand tools, though one or two items make the job far easier. The exact list depends on whether you're replacing just the boot or the inner track rod joint as well.

For a boot-only replacement, you'll need:

• A ball joint splitter or a track rod end removal tool
• A torque wrench
• New gaiter clips, usually supplied with the boot kit
• A pair of clip pliers or heavy-duty pincers
• A grease pack for the inner joint

If the inner joint has play, the job grows. You'll need a tie rod removal tool and possibly a specialist socket for the inner joint. At that point, most owners hand the car over, because the tracking must be reset afterwards with proper alignment equipment.

A common mistake is reusing old clips. They're cheap, they corrode, and a failed clip undoes the whole repair. Always fit new ones.

Book a Service →

If your car is a hybrid or electric model, the steering rack sits close to high-voltage cabling on some platforms. Our team at kmcelectric.co.uk handles hybrid and EV steering work with the correct isolation procedures, and you can book through Kettering Motorist Centre for the same standard of care.

Steering Rack Gaiter Replacement Cost UK: What to Expect

Steering rack gaiter replacement cost UK varies widely depending on the car and how much work the job involves. A boot kit itself is inexpensive, but labour dominates the bill because the rack area is awkward to reach.

Pricing depends on your make and model, whether one or both boots need replacing, and whether the inner joints have suffered damage. A split boot caught early is a straightforward job. A boot that has been split for months usually means a worn inner tie rod, and that changes the scope entirely.

We don't publish fixed prices, because quoting blind would be guesswork. What we do offer is a transparent process: bring the car in, we inspect it, and you get a clear explanation of what's needed before any work starts. No surprise bills, and no payment required when you book online.

For current pricing on steering and suspension repairs in Kettering, check our servicing pages or give us a call with your registration and we'll talk you through the options.

MOT Steering Component Failure: Why Boots Matter

MOT steering component failure is one of the most common reasons a car fails its test, and split rack boots sit high on the list. The MOT tests steering components for condition, security and function, and a perished or split gaiter counts against you (gov.uk).

The tester isn't being pedantic. A split boot allows water and grit into the inner joint, which accelerates wear on a component that directly affects your steering. A worn inner tie rod can cause vague steering, uneven tyre wear and, in the worst cases, loss of control.

Here's how the common boot faults map to what happens next:

If your MOT is due, book it with us and we'll flag any steering issues clearly, with the work explained before we touch anything. No upfront payment is needed to reserve your slot.

GOV.UK guidance on MOT tests and what is checked

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Checking Steering Rack Boots

The biggest mistake is checking the boot only in the straight-ahead position. Rubber splits open when it's stretched, so a boot that looks fine with the wheels straight can show an obvious split at full lock.

Other errors we see:

• Confusing grease with an oil leak. Grease around the boot points to the boot itself. Engine oil contamination usually comes from above and rots the rubber over time.
• Ignoring small cracks. Surface cracking on an older boot is a warning, not a pass. Rubber that has started to perish will split soon.
• Reusing old clips. Covered above, and worth repeating. New clips every time.
• Checking one side only. Both boots wear at similar rates, so if one is gone, inspect the other carefully.
• Skipping the inner joint check. A new boot over a worn joint is money wasted.

If you're not confident judging what you find, that's a sensible place to stop. Our technicians at Kettering Motorist Centre inspect steering and suspension as part of routine servicing, and we'll tell you honestly whether a boot needs replacing now or just watching.

A split steering rack boot is cheap to fix early and expensive to ignore, because the inner joint it protects wears quickly once grit gets in. If your inspection turns up anything more than light surface cracking, get it looked at before your next MOT. Kettering Motorist Centre offers expert diagnostic and repair services across Kettering, Northamptonshire and surrounding areas, with hassle-free online booking for MOTs and tyres and no payment required upfront. Book your MOT with us and let our team check your steering properly.